Falafel
Soaked raw chickpeas and a lot of fresh herbs give falafel a shatter-crisp crust and a tender, green, fluffy middle.
AI-generated image- 280 gpita breads
- 250 gdried chickpeas
- 200 gripe tomatoes
- 150 gcucumber
- 100 gyellow onion
Falafel are deep-fried balls or small patties of ground chickpeas, herbs, onion and spices. They are eaten across the Middle East and well beyond, usually tucked into pita with salad and tahini sauce, or served as part of a meze spread.
The key to this version is starting with dried chickpeas that are soaked but never cooked. Canned or cooked chickpeas turn pasty and fall apart in the oil. The chickpeas are pulsed to a texture like coarse couscous, not a smooth paste, and a large handful of parsley and cilantro (coriander) gives the cut face its green color.
Plan ahead: the chickpeas soak for 12 to 18 hours in the refrigerator, and that time is not included in the times above. After the soak, expect about 1 hour 30 minutes from draining to the table, including a 30 minute rest for the mixture while you make the sauce and salad and heat the oil. Frying one trial piece first shows whether the mix needs a little more flour before you fry the whole batch.
Preparation
- Step 01
The day before, rinse the dried chickpeas and put them in a large bowl or container with the 1000 g cold water. Cover and refrigerate at 4°C (40°F) or colder for 12 to 18 hours. Do not soak at room temperature. They are ready when they have roughly doubled in size and a chickpea snaps cleanly in half with a pale, evenly moist center and no hard core.
- Step 025 min
Drain the soaked chickpeas and rinse them well under cold water. Drain again thoroughly, spread them on a clean kitchen towel and pat dry. Wet chickpeas make a loose mixture that falls apart in the oil.
- Step 033 min
Put the parsley, cilantro, onion and garlic in a food processor and pulse until finely chopped, scraping down the sides once. Do not run it long enough to make a wet puree.
- Step 044 min
Add the drained chickpeas, cumin, ground coriander, red pepper flakes, salt and flour. Pulse in short bursts, scraping down the bowl, until the mixture looks like coarse couscous and sticks together when pinched. It should not be a smooth paste.
- Step 0530 min
Transfer the mixture to a bowl, cover, and refrigerate for 30 minutes. This lets the flour hydrate and makes the mixture easier to shape. Make the sauce and salad while it rests.
- Step 064 min
Make the tahini sauce. Whisk the tahini, lemon juice, garlic and salt in a small bowl; it will thicken and stiffen at first. Whisk in the cold water a little at a time until smooth, pourable and pale. Add a splash more water if it is too thick. Taste and adjust the salt and lemon.
- Step 073 min
Make the salad. Toss the tomatoes, cucumber, red onion, olive oil and salt in a bowl and set aside in the refrigerator.
- Step 088 min
Pour the frying oil into the pot so it is about 4 to 5 cm (1.5 to 2 in) deep and no more than half the height of the pot. Heat over medium heat to 180°C (350°F). If you have no thermometer, a small pinch of the mixture should sizzle steadily and float within a few seconds without browning instantly.
- Step 0910 min
While the oil heats, sprinkle the baking soda over the chilled mixture and mix it in gently. Shape a heaping tablespoon (about 38 g) into a ball or a slightly flattened patty, pressing firmly so it holds. If using sesame seeds, roll the shaped pieces in them. You should get about 20.
- Step 104 min
Fry one trial piece first. Lower it carefully into the oil and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, turning once, until deep golden brown. If it breaks apart, stir up to 15 g more flour into the mixture and fry another trial piece.
- Step 1120 min
Fry in batches of 4 pieces, without crowding, lowering them in gently with a slotted spoon. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes, turning once or twice, until the crust is deep brown and crisp. Let the oil return to 175 to 185°C (345 to 365°F) between batches, adjusting the heat as needed.
- Step 12
Lift out each batch with the slotted spoon and drain on paper towels or a rack. Break one open to check: the inside should be bright green and tender, not raw, pasty or gray. Keep finished falafel warm in an oven at 100°C (210°F) while you fry the rest.
- Step 133 min
Warm the pitas. Serve the falafel hot with pita, salad and tahini sauce spooned over, either stuffed into the bread or on a plate.
- Step 14
Turn off the heat and let the frying oil cool completely in the covered pot before straining and storing or discarding it.
Kitchen notes
- Time: the prep, chill and cook times above do not include the 12 to 18 hours of soaking in the refrigerator, so start the day before.
- Oil depth depends on your pot. A wider pot needs more oil for the same depth: a 24 cm (9.5 in) pot needs about 2 kg for 5 cm (2 in), which is why a narrower 20 cm (8 in) pot is used here. Always keep the oil at no more than half the height of the pot. The amount of oil the falafel absorb varies with the mixture and the oil temperature.
- Never use canned or cooked chickpeas for falafel. They hold too much water and the mixture will disintegrate in the oil.
- Make ahead: the uncooked mixture keeps, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 24 hours; add the baking soda only just before shaping. Shaped, uncooked falafel can be frozen on a tray, then bagged, and fried straight from frozen for an extra minute or two.
- Refrigerate leftover falafel, sauce and salad within 2 hours of cooking. Cooked falafel keep in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Reheat on a tray in an oven at 200°C (400°F) for 8 to 10 minutes until crisp and hot throughout.
- To bake instead of frying, flatten the pieces into patties, brush generously with oil, and bake at 220°C (425°F) for 25 to 30 minutes, turning once. They will be drier and less crisp than fried ones.
- Oil safety: never leave hot oil unattended, keep water away from it, and dry the herbs and chickpeas thoroughly so they do not spit.
- Variations: add a pinch of ground cardamom to the mixture, or serve with pickled turnips or hot sauce.
Diet and allergens
Suitable for: Vegan, Vegetarian, Dairy-free, Nut-free.
Contains: sesame, gluten (wheat).
Labels come from the ingredient list by fixed rules. If you cook for someone with an allergy, check the labels of packaged ingredients such as stock, spice blends, tahini and bread, since brands differ. How labels work.
Frequently asked questions
Why do my falafel fall apart when frying?
Usually the mixture is too wet or too finely ground, or the oil is too cool. Dry the soaked chickpeas and herbs well, pulse to a coarse crumb, chill the mixture, and fry a trial piece, adding a little flour if needed.
Can I use canned chickpeas?
Not for this recipe. Canned chickpeas are already cooked and soft, so they turn into a sticky paste and the falafel will be dense or break up in the oil.
Why not soak the chickpeas on the counter?
Soaking for 12 to 18 hours at room temperature allows bacteria to multiply, especially in a warm kitchen. Soaking covered in the refrigerator works just as well for falafel.
Why is the center dense or gray instead of green and fluffy?
The mixture was probably ground too fine, packed too tightly, or lacked herbs. Keep the texture coarse, shape firmly but not compressed, and use the full amount of parsley and cilantro.
What is the baking soda for?
A small amount makes the inside slightly lighter and more tender. It is added just before shaping so it is still active when the falafel hit the oil.
References and sources
- Nutrition: USDA FoodData Central records Dried chickpeas (FDC 173756), Cold water for soaking (FDC 173647), Flat-leaf parsley (FDC 170416), Cilantro (fresh coriander) (FDC 169997), Yellow onion (FDC 170000), Garlic (FDC 1104647), Ground cumin (FDC 170923), Ground coriander (FDC 170922), Red pepper flakes (FDC 170932), Fine salt (FDC 173468), All-purpose (plain) flour (FDC 168936), Baking soda (bicarbonate of soda) (FDC 175040), Sesame seeds (FDC 170150), Neutral oil for frying (FDC 171017), Tahini (FDC 169410), Lemon juice (FDC 167747), Cold water (FDC 173647), Garlic (FDC 1104647), Fine salt (FDC 173468), Ripe tomatoes (FDC 170457), Cucumber (FDC 2346406), Red onion (FDC 790577), Olive oil (FDC 171413), Fine salt (FDC 173468), Pita breads (FDC 174915).
- Proportions: main ingredients and salt per serving were compared with the median of 2 published recipes for this dish. How we make recipes.


